APPLIANCE HOOKUPS (DISHWASHERS, ICE MAKERS, WASHING MACHINES)

You open the dishwasher expecting clean, dry dishes and instead find a pool of dirty water sitting at the bottom. That's not just annoying, it's also unsanitary and means something in the drainage system isn't working right. When your dishwasher won't drain, the problem is usually one of a few things. The drain hose might not be installed with the proper high loop or air gap, the connection to your garbage disposal could be clogged or improperly set up, the dishwasher's filter or drain basket might be packed with food debris, or there could be a blockage in the drain line itself.

What you can try first: Start simple. Pull out the bottom rack and check the dishwasher filter (usually a round basket or screen at the bottom). Remove it and rinse away any food particles, grease, or gunk that's built up. That solves the problem more often than you'd think. Next, look under your sink and find the dishwasher drain hose. It should loop up high (close to the underside of the countertop) before dropping down to connect to the garbage disposal or drain. This high loop prevents dirty sink water from flowing back into the dishwasher. If the hose is just running straight across without a loop, that could be your issue. Also check if you recently had a new garbage disposal installed. There's a knockout plug inside the disposal inlet that needs to be removed for the dishwasher to drain properly, and installers sometimes forget to take it out.

When to call us: If the filter is clean, the hose is looped correctly, and water still won't drain, you've got a clog somewhere in the system or a faulty drain pump in the dishwasher itself. We'll check the connection at the garbage disposal (or air gap if you have one), snake the drain line if needed, and test the dishwasher pump to see if it's actually working. Dishwasher drain repairs typically run $100 to $250 depending on whether it's a simple clog, a hose issue, or a pump replacement. If the problem started right after a garbage disposal installation or replacement, we can fix the connection issue quickly, usually for $75 to $150. We've solved hundreds of dishwasher drainage problems across the Metroplex over 13 years, and standing water in your dishwasher isn't something you should just live with. It breeds bacteria and makes your dishes dirtier, not cleaner.

You pull out your refrigerator to clean behind it or grab something that rolled underneath, and you discover water pooling on the floor, a damp wall, or moisture on the back of the fridge. That's almost always the ice maker water line leaking. These small copper or plastic supply lines run from your home's plumbing to the back of the fridge, and they can develop pinhole leaks from corrosion, kinks in the line, loose connections at the fittings, or damage from the fridge being pushed back against the wall too hard. Because the fridge hides the leak, water can drip for weeks or months before you notice it, causing damage to your flooring, baseboards, drywall, or even the wall cavity behind the fridge.

What you can try first: Turn off the water supply to the ice maker (there should be a shut-off valve under your sink, behind the fridge, or in the basement/crawlspace). Dry everything off completely, then carefully inspect the entire length of the water line from the shut-off valve to where it connects at the back of the fridge. Look for moisture, corrosion, kinks, or visible cracks. Check the compression fittings at both ends and gently tighten them with a wrench (don't overtighten or you'll crack the fitting). Turn the water back on and watch closely for a few minutes to see if any drips appear. Sometimes a slightly loose connection is all it is.

When to call us: If you can't locate the source of the leak, if tightening the fittings doesn't stop it, or if you see water damage on the wall or floor that tells you it's been leaking for a while, give us a call. Pinhole leaks in copper lines can't be patched reliably. The line needs to be replaced. Plastic lines that are kinked or cracked also need replacement. We'll run a new water line properly secured and protected so it doesn't leak or get damaged again. Ice maker water line replacement typically runs $150 to $350 depending on the length of the run and how accessible the connection points are. If there's already water damage to the flooring or walls, catching it now prevents mold growth and more expensive repairs down the road. We've replaced hundreds of refrigerator water lines across Northeast Texas over 13 years, and we make sure they're installed right so you're not dealing with this again in a few years. A slow leak behind your fridge is easy to miss but expensive to ignore.

Most people never think about their washing machine hoses until they come home to a flooded laundry room. These hoses are under constant water pressure, and when they fail, they can dump 6 to 10 gallons of water per minute onto your floor. That's hundreds of gallons before you even realize what's happening if you're not home. The rubber hoses that come standard with most washing machines are the worst offenders. They dry out, crack, and develop weak spots over time. Eventually, they burst. It happens more often than you'd think, and it's one of the leading causes of homeowner's insurance claims for water damage.

What you can try first: Go take a look at your washing machine hoses right now. If they're black rubber and you've had them for more than 5 years (or you have no idea how old they are), replace them. Upgrade to braided stainless steel hoses. They cost around $20 to $30 for a pair at any hardware store and they're much more durable. Look for any bulges, cracks, or signs of wear on your current hoses. Check that the connections at both ends (where they attach to the wall valves and the back of the washer) are tight and not corroded. Turn off the water supply valves when you're not using the washer, especially if you're going out of town. That relieves the constant pressure and reduces the chance of a burst.

When to call us: If you see bulges in the hoses (that's a burst waiting to happen), if you hear loud banging or hammering sounds when the washer fills or drains (that's water hammer and it can damage pipes and connections), or if you're moving your washer to a new location and need the supply lines rerouted or replaced, give us a call. We'll install proper shut-off valves if you don't have them, upgrade you to quality braided hoses, check for water hammer issues and install arrestors if needed, and make sure everything is secure and leak-free. Washing machine hose replacement and installation typically runs $100 to $250 depending on whether new valves or additional plumbing work is required. Water hammer arrestor installation adds another $150 to $300. We've prevented countless laundry room floods across North Texas over 13 years by catching hose problems before they burst. A $30 hose replacement now beats a $5,000 water damage claim later.

Gas dryers are efficient and dry clothes faster than electric, but they also come with a serious responsibility. The gas line connection has to be done right. We're talking about natural gas or propane flowing into an appliance in your home, and any mistake in the installation can lead to gas leaks, carbon monoxide buildup, fire risk, or even an explosion in worst case scenarios. If you've recently moved a dryer, had a new one delivered, or bought a house and aren't sure about the hookup, it's worth having it checked. Common problems we see include using the wrong type of connector, connections that aren't properly tightened or sealed, flexible lines that are kinked or damaged, and missing or improperly installed sediment traps.

What you need to know: This is not a DIY project unless you are a licensed professional. Seriously. Gas line work requires specific knowledge, the right materials, proper tools, and an understanding of local building codes. Using the wrong type of flexible connector, failing to properly test for leaks, or skipping required components like a sediment trap can create dangerous situations that won't show up until it's too late. If you smell gas (that rotten egg odor), hear a hissing sound near the dryer, or have any doubt about whether your dryer is hooked up correctly, turn off the gas supply at the shut-off valve immediately, don't use the dryer, and call a professional.

When to call us: If you need a new gas line run to a dryer location, if you're replacing or moving a gas dryer, if you smell gas anywhere near your dryer area, or if you just want peace of mind that your existing setup is safe, we're here to help. We'll inspect the connection, test for leaks using professional methods, ensure the proper sediment trap and shut-off valve are installed, and verify everything meets code. Gas dryer line installation typically runs $200 to $500 depending on how far the line needs to run and whether any additional gas piping is required. Leak repairs and reconnections usually cost $100 to $250. We've installed and inspected countless gas dryer hookups across the Metroplex over 13 years, and we take this work seriously because your family's safety depends on it. Gas appliances are nothing to gamble with. If you have any question at all about your setup, let us take a look.

If your washing machine walks across the floor during the spin cycle or your dishwasher sits tilted and uneven, that's more than just a nuisance. Appliances that aren't properly leveled or secured put stress on water connections, drain hoses, and internal components. That constant movement and vibration can loosen hose clamps, crack supply lines, wear out seals, and cause leaks that you won't notice until there's water damage. A washing machine that rocks back and forth can also damage your flooring and make enough noise to drive you crazy. Dishwashers that aren't level don't drain properly, leaving standing water at the bottom that breeds bacteria and makes your dishes smell funky.

What you can try first: For a washing machine, make sure it's sitting on a solid, level surface. Most washers have adjustable leveling feet at each corner. Use a level (the tool, or even a level app on your phone works) and adjust the feet until the machine sits flat and doesn't rock when you push on opposite corners. Tighten the lock nuts on the feet once you've got it level. For a dishwasher, open the door and look for the adjustable feet at the front. Turn them to raise or lower the dishwasher until it sits level front to back and side to side. It should also be secured to the underside of your countertop with mounting brackets. If it's not anchored, it can tip forward when you open the door or shift during operation.

When to call us: If you've leveled the appliance but it still vibrates excessively, rocks during use, or the connections feel loose and unstable no matter how much you tighten them, there's likely a bigger issue. The floor might not be level enough to support the appliance properly, the hoses might be kinked or routed incorrectly causing strain on the connections, or the appliance itself could have internal balance problems (like a washing machine with a broken suspension or worn drum bearings). We'll assess whether it's a simple leveling and connection issue or if the appliance needs repair or the plumbing connections need to be reconfigured. Appliance leveling and connection tightening usually runs $75 to $150. If hoses need to be rerouted or replaced due to strain damage, that typically costs $100 to $250. We've stabilized hundreds of wobbly appliances and fixed stress-related leaks across the Metroplex over 13 years. A washing machine shouldn't sound like a rocket launch, and your dishwasher shouldn't look like the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Let us get things squared away before a small annoyance turns into a leak.